
I learned to body surf in the Canary Islands when I was 20. I saw some guy riding a huge wave, one arm extended like superman, his torso jutting out of the wave. Being twenty and immortal, this prairie boy (and poor swimmer) thought he’d give it a shot. Out I swam. The bottom dropped away. I realized that this guy was quite a bit further out than I thought. It was then that I felt the undertow. It wasn’t exactly a rip tide, thank God. But very quickly I … [Read more...]









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